Walking around a ‘ghost town’ so close to Central Rome feels ... Of course, there is still plenty to do in ‘old’ Rome, as it were. After a shower, spaghetti, and sleep, I jump on a metro ...

When in Rome, do as the Romans do - get out of town and head for ... moody wine bar called Calice, deep in the old town. Here we strike gold. They squeeze us into a tiny table for two, and without ...