My first introduction to big wave boards was a photo on the wall in my Technical Drawing class at school in 1968. It was of Buzzy Trent riding a Rhino Gun at Waimea Bay. I loved that photo because ...

Someone left this book outside my dorm building, so I decided to read it. You read that right — some anonymous person, admirer or whomever left a random book just outside my dorm building in Baker ...